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ROMANTIC 
SAN ANTONIO 

HARVEY PARTRIDGE SMITH 

ILLUSTRATED WITH 
PEN SKETCHES 
DRAWN FROM LIFE 
BY THE AUTHOR 




First E:.c£itiorv 



PUBLISHED BY 

JACKSON PRINTING COMPANY 

SAN ANTONIO, TE3CAS 







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2a.,4.5Al8132 



OCT 29 1918 

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ROMANTIC SAN ANTONIO 




|HE charm of an old city lies chiefly around the historic spots 
and buildings in which the romance of its early history is 
centered. Rarely do we enter a city that can boast of ancient 
edifices and haloed ground, the history of which is known 
the country over. Rarer still is the community, whose quaint 
buildings, picturesque scenes and romantic atmosphere is its 
main attraction, luring thousands to its gates each year. 
Such, however, is the boast of San Antonio, Texas, the 
quaintest, most lovable, ever-interesting and hospitable city 
in the United States. No where else may you find such an appeal to the 
romantic and the picturesque, and have such hospitable welcome extended 
you, no where will you find such a blending of the ancient with the 
modern, as in this delightful city of our own Southwest. 

You may enter the city on several different lines and step at once 
into depots, designed to augment the atmosphere of quaintness which 
pervades the whole city. One is a replica in part of the old mission 
i^ear by. Surrounded by desert and semi-tropical plants they give an 
impression almost foreign. Tall stately date-palms, Spanish daggers, 
giant cactus, banana trees, china berry and magnolias lend their beauty, 
weirdness and picturesque charm to this impression of some Latin com- 
munity far removed from our bustling, ultra-modern American cities. 
You feel also, as you emerge from the depot, the letting down of the 
hurry and worry, the rush and excitement of your hitherto busy life 
and a sudden entrance into a restful, quiet, but altogether entrancing 
existence. 

Here no one hurries. Men and women stroll leisurely. Cattlemen 
with big sombreros and leather boots stand idly on the corners smoking 
their cigarettes, Mexican candy vendors doze by their tiny stands. Yet 
somehow, you feel that the people as a whole are not lazy, they seem to 
enjoy life as they go about their work. They are a happy and extremely 
friendly and hospitable people who dwell in this city of sunshine, happi- 
ness and romance. Here is a lovable place indeed, — the friendly people, 
the quaint buildings, the narrow crooked streets, the quiet restful plazas, 
the clear cool stream which winds its way with many twists and bends 
through the city — all add to the irresistible charm and romance of old 
San Antonio. Many of the pioneers call it "San Antone" with an af- 
fectionate sort of drawl. 



You biay be surprised to learn that it is the second oldest city in the 
country, having been founded in the year 1715 as a Spanish military gar- 
rison. The entire garrison at that time having been contained within a 
stockade surrounding what is now known as Military Plaza or Plaza de 
las Armas. The City Hall now stands in the center of this historic square. 
On the east edge of it, between this and Main Plaza is the old San Fer- 
nando Cathedral. It is the low massive chapel in the rear with its blue- 
gray limestone walls and buttresses that served the garrison in its 
earliest days. On the west side of the plaza stands the governor's 
"palace", a little inconspicuous one-story stone building where most of 
the famous men of the old Southwest were dined and wined, where dark 
eyed senoritas were wont to try their captivating charms on the dashing 
young officers who frequented its portal. 

On Soledad Street a few blocks distant there stood, until recently, 
another governor's residence, known as the Verimendi Palace, where 
Ben Milam paid court to the governor's daughter and where later he 
was killed in one of the many sieges to which the city has been sub- 
jected. It is one of the legends of the place, — because it has never been 
substantiated, — that there was once a tunnel leading from the palace, 
under the river to the Alamo, but so far as history relates no one ever 
knew of its existence. Otherwise, that heroic little band who gave up 
their lives in the famous siege of the Alamo undoubtedly would have 
discovered its whereabouts and found refuge therein. 

If you are in the ©ity but a few hours or a month you will not miss 
a visit to this mission, San Antonio de Valero, otherwise known as the 
Alamo, the haloed spot so sacred in the hearts and memories of all loyal 
Texans. It was founded in the year 1716 but the corner stone was not 
laid until May 8, 1744. To look at the modest little building you would 
never think that here, took place a fight, the like of which has never 
been surpassed and seldom equaled anywhere else in the world. It is 
situated at the northeast corner of Alamo Plaza, — the very heart of the 
city. At the time it was built, the ' ' mission ' ' comprised a stockaded 
square, which covered the largest portion of the present plaza, a quad- 
rangle, granary and monks ' cells — the walls of which still stand adjoining 
the church on the north. And lastly the church itself, now known as the 
' ' Alamo ' ', Spanish for ' ' Cottonwood ' ', there being a grove of cotton- 
woods near by. 

Texas at that time belonged to Mexico, but the pioneers revolted at 
the tyranny of their rulers, declared independence, and a little band of 



Texans, 177 in all, barracaded themselves within the mission walls and 
defied President Santa Anna of Mexico to try and take it away from 
them. With from four to five thousand troops he besieged that heroic 
little band for over two weeks, bombarding from all sides. But every one 
of the Texans were sharpshooters and even though hopelessly outnum- 
bered they held their fort without loss until that fateful Sunday morn- 
ing of March 6th, 1836. 

All this while the Mexicans had been closing in around the mission 
walls. While he yet had the chance, Travis, who was in command, sent 

out appeal after appeal to all loyal 
Texans and Americans everywhere to 
come to his assistance. General Sam 
Houston was doing his utmost to 
raise an army of relief. Fannin 
with about 300 troops at 
Goliad started, but never 
got there, — only Al Mar- 
tin with 32 men from 
Gonzales who fought 
their way thru 
the Mexican 
])j.fK, lines, finally 







gr^|rv*?W#>^^;:^.».' reached the be- 
'#.,•■ J/*^. '*|fef ':',•■'■-,.'( is N leaguered walls. 



*'■■'- "'"TWIHrn? 



'Jimi 



"The bnlfrey of St. Mark's" 



James Donham, 
who was the 
messenger sent 
out by Travis, 
worked his way 
back by night 
and slipped thru 
the lines to join 
his friends. 
Then there was 
Davy Crockett, 
that happy-go- 
lucky back- 
woodsman who 



came down from Tennessee with his famous rifle "Betsy" in search 
of adventure, and got it. He was a six foot, six inch, lithe, powerfully 
built man who laughed his way into the hearts of all those brave men 
whose fate he shared. Engraved upon his "Betsy" (which was the gift 
of congressmen when he was in Washington) was the slogan he used to 
the end, "Be sure you're right, then go ahead." Jim Bowie was there 
too, with his famous knife, but he lay sick upon his cot or he would 
have been in supreme command. Lieutenant Dickinson 's wife and child, 
together with several other women and children were among the be- 
seiged. 

On the night of the 5th the bombardment ceased, the first respite 
during the past two weeks. This was an ominous sign for the morrow. 
Colonel Travis knew that the end was near. Calling his men into the 
church he told them that they must know it was impossible to hold out 
much longer against so vast a number. Ammunition and supplies were 
running low, — the odds were too great and he wished to give them a 
chance to decide if they wanted to try to slip through the lines and 
escape that night. As for himself he had said he would "never sur- 
render nor retreat" and so he would stay to the end. He was trying to 
make it easy for them to go if they wanted to, — he would not blame 
them in the least, — "and yet", ho added, "I shall dearly love any man 
who cares to stay ' '. Then he drew his sword and marked a line across 
the church between himself and the men. 'All those who will stay come 
over here". Not a single man stood back. Bowie on his cot begged to 
be carried over to Travis ' side and out of respect to him, he was car- 
ried across first. Then came all the rest. There, in that sanctuary of the 
past, and, — because of them, — a sanctuary for all time to come, the little 
band knelt down, while Travis offered up a prayer. 

At 3 a. m., the bombardment re-commenced, the bugle sounded 
" Deguello " — no quarter — and the Mexican troops forming into five 
columns moved simultaneously from all sides toward the Alamo like five 
great spokes of a wheel extending out from the hub. With scaling lad- 
ders, axes and guns they gained the outer walls of the mission square 
and soon appeared above only to be picked off by the Texas sharp- 
shooters. Now they came in such hordes, urged on from behind by their 
officers with drawn sabers, that the Texans had to club their guns and 
fight hand to hand, hurling the Mexicans back in the faces of their com- 
rades below. But outnumbered as they were it was inevitable that the 
Texans would soon have to give up the outer walls of the square, so now 



they retreated toward the inner quadrangle, making the Mexicans pay 
dearly for every inch of the ground gained. 

Travis was killed among the first. Davy Crockett now took com- 
mand. Within the quadrangle the Texans fought like tigers, but still 
the hordes of brown men poured over the walls like a great flood until 
the remnant left of the brave little band had to retreat to the church, 
taking toll of several times their number as they went. Once within its 
walls they barricaded its portal with huge timbers and piled everything 
they could find against the massive wooden doors. At least it gave them 
a breathing spell and chance to reload their guns. Davy Crockett was 
everywhere. Just now he was on the 
"greasers" as fast as he could coax 
to spit fire. Al Martin was up there 
of men and his six-pounder, "The 
making every shot count. 

But it could not last much 
cans were beginning to swarm up 
with scaling ladders while down be- 
tering in the massive doors. The 







roof picking off 
Ids beloved * Betsy ' 
too with a handful 
Last Argument, ' ' 






.i«^K>^ longer. The Mexi- 

Jfi\l\ and over the walls 

yTsi:TK'' low they were bat- 



'^SSSS^SSS* 



«))«»» roof had fallen in 






elX'i^' 




"4 '"^W!!-.^ 



'Jan Jose, — the grandest of them all" 



during the siege and now the Mexicans dropped within and poured thru 
the main entrance as well. Crockett, seeing that the end was near, became 
a veritable demon. His great strength and quick, agile movements made 
him a dangerous foe for all who came within his reach. Letting himself 
down at arm's length from the roof he dropped within, and clubbing his 
gun, cleared a path through the mob of howling Mexicans to the little 
group of his companions still valiantly fighting in front of the door to 
the room where Bowie lay sick. 

Reaching them he turned and faced the horde of brown men now 
closing in around them. He had broken the stock of his "Betsy" in 
mowing a path to reach his comrades. Rage and the inevitable end so 
close, made his strength almost super-human. Grasping two of the nearest 
"greasers" one in either hand, he literally hurled them back into the 
midst of the mob, which stood aghast at this human giant for one terri- 
ble second, then surged forward with fixed bayonets. All was over in a 
few minutes. A report from within the room told that Bowie had fired 
his last shot. 

When all was quiet and safe once more, General Santa Anna rode in 
on his white charger and was cheered by his men as the great ' ' General- 
issimo". He ordered that the bodies of the Texans be burned on a 
pyre, which was done the next day. That is the story of Texas ' beloved 
heroes and that is why the Alamo is known as the ' ' Cradle of Texas 
Liberty". For by their heroic sacrifice was kindled a fire that soon after 
swept over the land and ended in the battle of San Jacinto, where General 
Sam Houston and his little army defeated the great Santa Anna with 
the battle cry of "Remember the Alamo". 

The plain little building is not very attractive architecturally, there 
being only the main entrance in any way interesting, but the knowledge 
of its history makes people gaze in wonder and awe at the simple facade. 
Originally the Alamo had two towers, but these with the roof and a 
goodly portion of the walls had fallen in many years prior to the siege. 
Afterwards when United States troops used it as a garrison the walls 
were built up to their original height and a new roof was put on, but 
the towers have never been rebuilt. The plan of the building is that of a 
cross with the chancel in the east and the main entrance opposite, — 
at the foot, — the transcepts forming the arms of the cross. The interior 
is just plain stone walls and dirt floor, but now contains a little museum 
of relics, pictures, old books, and souvenirs, one old cannon is dated 1698. 



m 

mi 



This one historic building in itself would be enough to attract 
tourists from all over the country, but San Antonio boasts of four other 
old missions in addition. The others are located to the south of the city 
about two miles apart; — a road leading from one to the other. The first 
one is the mission la Purisima Concepcion de Acuna which faces west like 
the Alamo, and the other missions. It was founded in 1716 but the 
building was not begun until 1731. It is extremely plain but dignified 
and massive in appeai'ance and is the best preserved of all the missions. 
The main ornamentation is a simple triangle over the entrance doors. 
Once the entire facade was painted in brilliant colors, but now these 
have nearly faded away. Two stained glass windows above the entrance 
are the only panes of glass in any of the missions. The twin towers, 
ornamental parapet, and dome over the chancel, — that is decidedly 
Moorish, — make a majestic outline against the sky. 

The church records of Concepcion 's palmy days read like a novel, 
so numerous and interesting were the activities of the little community. 
Eeligious services are still held in the church to which the simple minded 
Mexicans, who live in huts near by, attend with the same implicit faith 
and devotion that the Indians showed in its early years. Soft limestone 
was used in the construction of this church and in that of San Jose 
j and was quarried just across the road where the pit may still be 
1 seen. The mission square with its encircling walls and the bar- 
racks, grannaries, and outbuildings, have entirely disappeared, 







"Tlip MavkPt House — center of the Mexican quai'ter" 



-«v^;^ 



but the arcade and part of the padres' living quarters still remain to give 
an idea of the extent of the one-time prosperous mission. 

The second mission, or San Jose de Aguayo is the grandest and most 
beautiful of all the missions and vpas also the first to be built. Begun in 
1720 it took eleven years to complete and the day of its completion was 
made the occasion of beginning the Concepcion, the San Juan and the 
San Francisco missions, March 5th, 1731. It stands on the top of a 
gently sloping hill commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. 
How impressive is that lone tower rising high above the massive walls 
which stretch out in a long line, and end with a series of arches! The 
building was built largely of adobe bricks, though great 
blocks of limestone were placed in the walls where orna- 
mental features were desired and these were carved by the 
architect, — Pedro Huicar, a Spaniard whose ancestors had 
chisled the delicate tracery of the Alhambra. 

The main portal of San Jose is rich with beauti- 
ful carvings, figures of Saints and Virgins, cherubs 
and hearts, niches with shell-like canopies, ornamental 
pedestals and beautiful cornices. Other portions of 
the building are ornamented in a simi- 
lar manner, but not to so great an ex- 
tent. There are three minor carved stono 
doorways (one just recently unearthed) 
pilaster caps, fonts, and gargoyles, be- 
side the gem of them all, — the south 
window of the baptistry. This one piece 
of work alone is worth coming a long 
way to see and is considered by connois- 
seurs to be the finest single piece of 
Spanish -colonial ornamentation exist- 
ing in America. Its curves and propor- 
tions are an ever-pleasing sight to the 
layman as well as the professional and 
it is forever revealing some fresh and 
hidden beauty in leaf or mould. The carving is bold and daring, but 
exquisite in line and curve, with a freedom and freshness in its composi- 
tion that denotes the hand of an inspired genius. 

The belfry tower which is about sixty feet high has four arched 
openings and is topped with a pyramidical stone roof. In the angle 




"The old stone house by the river" 



made by this tower and the main wall of the chapel was & peculiar 
winding stairway of solid hewn steps to the second story of the belfry 
tower. From this level to the roof are unique stairs made of solid tree 
trunks, the steps having been notched out with an axe. In thickness 
the walls range from two to five feet and the tremendous weight of the 
great vaulted stone roof makes us marvel at the skill of the men who 
raised them without the aid of modern machinery. And yet we learn that 
it was comparatively simple after all, though tedious. As the main walls 
were going up, dirt was constantly being filled in between them so 
that the huge stones could be moved into place easily. When the walls 
were completed the dirt was piled higher and rounded off and the roof 
built on top of the curved mound, each stone locked into place. When 
the roof was completed and the mortar had set, the dirt was dug out 
from beneath and the rest of the building finished. For nearly two hun- 
dred years it had withstood the ravages of the elements, but one stormy 
night in December, 1868, the roof, dome, cupola and a large portion of 
the north wall fell in. This would not have happened, even then, had 
not some treasure hunters just a few days before thoughtlessly under- 
mined the walls in their futile search for buried gold. 

Happily for those of us who love these grand old monuments of the 
past this one mission at least has been 
partially restored just recently. Great piles 
of debris were carefully removed and old 
walls built up of the original adobe. Across 

\— the road still stands the old granary with 

its flying buttresses that once formed a 
w^ .i^V n part of the quadrangle walls in the north- 

^^^ >»- >.^ west corner of 

r ^.'J*^ '•A the mission 

square. It is 
interesting t o 
sit there and 
gaze at the 
ruins and dream 
of those days 
when San Jose 
was at the 
height of its 
'Stone «nd adobe huts — white plastered with deep reveals' prosperity and 





usefulness and the "Pearl of all the missions in New Spain." 

The third and fourth missions, San Juan de Capistrano and San 
Francisco de la Espada are not so interesting as the others for there is 
little left but four plain walls to each, the front one rising higher than 
the others, in which arches were cut and bells hung. Quite visible remains 
of the quadrangle walls are still to be seen at both of these missions. All 
of the missions lie along the course of the San Antonio river and all had 
wells within their quadrangles, but in addition the padres built irrigation 
ditches to provide water for the extensive missions lands. Between San 
Juan and San Francisco, across the Piedro creek is an old fern-covered ac- 
queduct on a series of stone arches over which one of the irrigating ditches 
used to flow. These evidences of former prosperity and grandeur are 
gradually disappearing and not many years hence may be entirely oblit- 
erated, but the memory of them will remain with those of us who have 
seen them always. 

Having visited the missions the next point of interest in our quest 
for the romantic and picturesque, hidden away amidst the modern 
stores, office buildings, residences and million-dollar hotels which have 
sprung up in the past ten years, is the Mexican quarter on the west side 
of the city. Here you are transported once more into a decidedly foreign 
atmosphere. The old stone and adobe huts, white plastered with deep 
reveals are sprinkled here and there among the greater proportion of 
flimsy frame shacks patched with tin cans, old boards, cloth or any ma- 
terial which came to hand. The picturesque Mexicans with their high 
crowned hats and the senoritas and senoras in their inevitable black 
dresses with black mantillas over their heads are everywhere to be 
seen. 

About the old Market House centers a good deal of the life, color 
and activities of this quarter. To Hay Market square just back of the 
Market House, come Mexican wagons (drawn by burros or dilapidated 
horses) loaded with produce, poultry, hay, wood, and other articles for 
sale. Here gather the women of the district buying their meager sup- 
plies or selling drawn work, and trinkets. Here you will find the chilli 
queens at their stands just the same as when O. Henry used to patronize 
them in search of local color for his now-famous stories. Not far from 
here is a little old stone building known to the Mexicans as the Wonder 
Chapel where the simple minded people claim that many miracles of 
healing have been wrought. 



Here about Christmas time, they present "Los Pastores" — The 
Shepherds, — a play of the Nativity. It is given each year, nine nights 
before and nine nights after Christmas, but of late years the place has 
been changed each night and kept secret, as much as possible, from the 
Americans. The play, of necessity, being very crudely produced was a 
source of great merriment to the white people who witnessed it, while 
to the Mexicans it is a very real and sacred production and a vital part 
of their religious life. If you are diligent in your search 
through the Mexican quarter on one of those eighteen 
nights you will sooner or later see torch lights burning, and 
hear the applause of ^.^ 



an eager crowd. Then 
you will know that 
you have at last stum- 
bled on Los Pastores. 
They don 't mind if 
you witness their 
miracle play so long 
as you do not make 
fun of it, and since 
you know how much 
it means to them it 
would be exceedingly 
unkind and unwise to 
do so openly. 







"Many on old Spanish 



However, it is rather hard to keep from laughing at times, for the 
scenery (or rather the lack of it) the costumes, the "business" of the 
play and the situations are decidedly ludicrous. The story deals with the 
journey of the shepherds to Bethlehem to see the Christ Child. On the 
way they are tempted by Lucifer and his Imps who try to lead them off. 
They are joined by an old hermit and finally after many vicissitudes 
they arrive at Bethlehem and lay their gifts before the new-born King. 
The strange part of this journey is, that all the while they are supposed 
to be on their way to Bethlehem the actors are in reality standing in 
two lines facing each other. As each one's turn comes to speak he steps 
out and paces slowly up and down between the lines, chanting the 
while, his part. 

The entire play, of course, is in Spanish, but anyone may follow the 
theme by watching the players closely. There is no change in the scenery, 



and what little there is, is of the crudest form, requiring of the audience 
a considerable stretch of the imagination to visualize what it is sup- 
posed to represent. The shepherds were dressed in simple, almost every- 
day costume, each carrying a staff. The hermit wore a regular Santa 
Claus mask with rosy cheeks, smiling face, and a long white beard. His 
Satanic Majesty for want of a better disguise, had obtained a black- 
face mask and had a long tail (attached to his coat) at the end of which 
was a bunch of fire crackers. These were set off at a given que to show 
Lucifer's fiery wrath. At the rear of the improvised stage was a long 
table against the back wall. Upon this, at the center, sat a pretty little 
Mexican girl in white, who represented the Virgin Mother, and on her 
lap a basket in which lay a tiny doll — the Christ Child. 

On one end of the table upon a common kitchen chair there was a 
happy little boy with tissue paper wings who was the Angel Gabriel. 
From the corner just above him to the opposite corner below, a wire 
stretched, and presumably, beneath "Gabriel's" clothes a belt fastened 
about his body from which a rope was attached by pulley to the wire 
above. When Gabriel descended to earth from his "heavenly" seat to 
protect the shepherds from Lucifer's temptations, he was let down by 
the stage manager, property man and scene shirfter, — all in one — who, 
by the way, was always in full view. The descent was none too gentle, 
being accompanied by many jerks and stops, due largely to the entangle- 
ment of the rope, wire and Gabriel. The ascent back to his lofty perch 
on the kitchen chair was still more difficult, requiring about all the 
strength the general utility man could summon. Happily no accidents oc- 
curred and Gabriei regained his seat in safety. 

The play lasts for about four hours but is followed with breathless 
interest by all the Mexicans. The parts are taken year after year by the 
same people, who are largely of the poorer class, and are reverently 
handed down fom generation to generation, as it is considered a great 
honor. Ludicrous as it may seem to most of 
us we can not help but respect these poor 
people, for their hearts and souls seem to 
enter into the spirit of the play and this 
simple faith so much a part of their natures, 
is beautiful to behold in so skeptical an age. 

You will find this same faith expressed 
in every home throughout this section of 
town. At this season of the year each house- 




holder hangs out a lantern, to guide the good spirits to that particular 
domicile, upon each gate post or door a cross is marked and around the 
entire house a circle of ashes is strewn to keep out the bad spirits. Mid- 
night mass is celebrated in the Cathedral at 12 o'clock Christmas Eve, 
and this is a gorgeous spectacle to behold, for which the Mexicans look 
forward with great eagerness. The decorations of the interior alone are 
worth coming miles to see, while the service is even more spectacular 
and the music is beautiful. 

These humble Mexicans are great lovers of music and you will be sur- 
prised to hear what sweet voices they have and how delightfully they 
can strum their instruments. If you will sit out on your "gallery" — as 
the San Antonians call their porches, — on most any moonlight night dur- 
ing the summer it won 't be long before you will hear the sweet strains of 
"La Paloma" and "La Golandrina" come drifting to you and then you 
will know that the Mexican sereuaders are in the neighborhood. Sooner 
or later they will stop in front of your house or hotel while the langor- 
ous music of old Mexico will charm and set you dreaming of Spanish fan- 
dangos and dark-eyed senoritas in black lace mantillas with their gal- 
lant and amorous "caballeros" — ^gentlemen. You are expected 
to give your serenaders a few nickles, but you will not begrudge 
them. 

All San Antonio loves music so you will have many oppor- 
tunities to hear it. In the plazas, on the roof gardens, out at 
the army post, — you will hear music everywhere. Eegular mili- 
tary concerts are given in most all of the plazas as well as at 
the bandstands of the numerous camps 
around the city. Old Fort Sam Hous- 
ton, — locally known as the Army Post, 
— is one of the most interesting and 
picturesque sights around the city. It 
is one of the largest in the country and 
is the base for all the camps round- 
about with their thousands of boys in 
khaki. There you will see the base 
hospital, the great parade grounds, offi- 
cers' quarters and the famous Qua- 
drangle which is now the headquarters 
for the entire southern division. 
In the fontor of the quadrangle 




stands the old stone clock tower, a relic of early days. Here Geronimo, 
the Apache outlaw, was confined after his capture, and many famous 
men and generals have visited and climbed to its top to look over the 
surrounding country. 

To the northeast lies Camp Travis, that gigantic city of canton- 
ments which sprang up in a night to house 40,000 soldiers. Several miles 
away to the northwest is Camp Stanley at Leon Springs where several 
thousand splendid young men are training to be officers. To the south, 
on the other side of the city lie Brooks Field, Kelly Field Nos. 1 and 2, 
comprising one of the largest if not the largest aviation center in the 
country. Then there is the balloon school with its field, beside various 
other camps, fields, supply depots, and buildings, — the arsenal being not 
the least of these, — all belonging to Uncle Sam and all enhancing the 
interest of old San Antonio. But in our search for the quaint and romantic 
we must leave this vast undertaking for another time and go with the 
soldiers back into the city and hunt for those delightful little out-of-the- 
way places where the "boys" spend a good deal of their spare time. 

On our way back we will drive through Brackenridge Park, that 
beautiful, natural reserve, the gift of a prominent citizen, which the 
city has generously built up as a public play-ground, free to all. There is 
an eighteen hole municipal golf links and clubhouse; tennis courts, base- 
ball diamond, swimming hole at a bend of the river, a zoo with a great 
many rare and ever-interesting animals, bandstands, rustic bridges, and 
lovers ' lanes. Most beautiful of all though, are the splendid drives which 
wind entrancingly among the gnarled old oak and tangled undergrowth. 
These roads take you beside and across the clear, quiet river, and over- 
head, hanging from nearly every branch, is the grey Spanish moss, sway- 
ing with the breeze, — a wierd but neverthless charming scene. San 
Pedro Park though not nearly so large, is another delightfully cool and 
shady retreat from the afternoon sun. 

Leaving the parks you pass through a well developed section of the 
residence district. The homes, mostly modern in character, are about the 
same as you will see in other modern cities, but tucked away here and 
there between these homes you will find an old Spanish "casa" set way 
back from the street among verdant foliage and meriads of flowers. 

Upon your return to the city, — hungry, instead of going to one of 
numerous cafes or hotels, try one of the Mexican restaurants, just for 
the novelty of it at first, and later you will find yourself going quite 
often because you like it. There are several of them scattered around 



through the city, but since we are on the lookout for the quaint and 
picturesque we will go to one which is on a bend in the river. It is what 
was onco the old Twohig mansion where most of the fapious men and 
generals of the old South were royally entertained. La Casa del Rio, — 
the house by the river, — sets way back from the street and though the 
exterior is extremely plain you will be charmed with the numerous quaint 
little rooms inside, the overhanging balconies above the river, the huge 
fireplaces and brightly colored decorations. Exquisitely woven scrapes 
hang in the main hall to shield a portion of the kitchen Where you hear 
the Mexican women patting tortillas and grinding meal on the matate. 
You may think the meal similates the fiery region below, the first time 
you try it, but you will learn to like it more and more, — especially on a 
cold night. Then it is that the chilli con came, tamales, enchiladas, 
rellenos, tortillas, frijoles, sopa de arroz and cafe taste mighty good. 

Another delightful place to eat you will find facing on Alamo Plaza, 
within a stone's throw of the Alamo. It is one of the oldest and most 
famous hostelries in the South and has been the rendevous for all the 
great personages who have visited San Antonio since its erection. The 
"Monger" is still the favorite resort for army folks and civilians alike 
and in its charming Spanish patio you may listen to old plantation melo- 
dies and partake of delectable plantation dishes, cooked and served by 
' ' old tinie ' ' darkies. 

In the early days when the town was "wide open" there were many 
famous gambling dens, — such as the "Silver King" and the "Washing- 
ton Theatre", dance halls and saloons, where cowboys and ranchers were 
wont to spend most of their money and time while in town. These are 
now being crowded out and rapidly disappearing with the advent of 
modern "palaces" for refreshment. One of the most popular of these 
older places still remains a favorite resort and is a point of interest, 
being visited every day by hundreds of tourists — ladies as well as gentle- 
men. It is the old Buckhorn Saloon, — so named because its walls and 
fixtures are literally covered with many rare specimens of antlers, — 
one of these having seventy-eight points. There are also a number of 
beautifully marked rattlesnake skins and thousands of rattles. 

Most tourists come to San Antonio during the winter months and 
though the climate is ideal here then, the most delightful seasoa is the 
early Spring when the trees begin to shoot o^ut their leaves, the flowers 
are in bloom and all the world of Nature awakens, — fresh and green and 
beautiful. The people too, blossom out, the men in their "palm beach" 




and linen suits and the ladies in their dainty white and delicately-tinted 
costumes. The San Antonians are pleasure-loving people — getting much 
joy out of life each day. Springtime means playtime for them. The spirit 
of the Carnival is in the air, so, about the latter end of April for a good 
many years past San Antonio has celebrated the Fiesta week, and people 
come from all over Texas, gay throngs crowd the streets, flags and 
bunting fly from every building, bands are playing everywhere and all 
the plazas are crowded with side shows. 

The big parade with its beautiful floats, — in which the "king" 
and "queen", with all her ladies in waiting — debutantes of the season — 
sit enthroned, — ^the truly spectacular and magnificent coronation, and the 
queen's ball all lend enchantment to this gloriously happy week. On the 
twenty-first of April, during Fiesta week, — is given the beautiful and 
enchanting "Battle of Flowers", — in celebration of the anniversary of 
the battle of San Jacinto — in which two lines of gayly-deeorated car- 
riages and autos circle around Alamo Plaza — the two lines going in oppo- 
site directions. As the carriages pass each other, a perfect shower of 
flowers are thrown back and forth by the happy occupants. 

There on Alamo Plaza where once men fought and gave up their 
lives, gay crowds make merry today with but little thought of those 
valiant heroes of yesterday. Overhead airplanes glide gracefully past; — 
and all through the years the quiet, unassuming old Alamo looks down 
upon the ever-changing scenes about her with inscrutable silence. 



^ ...^Tiif'*" "The clock tower in the Quadrangle' 



CopyriE'nt 1918 by 
Harvey Partridge Smith 



^UWl»Kti>b 



014 649 328 2 



